Type 1 Beetle Front Disc Brake Install - Disc Brake Installs - Custom Volkswagen Parts

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Dec

2009

Type 1 Beetle Front Disc Brake Install

It is recommended to read and comprehend this install guide BEFORE beginning the disc brake conversion. This set was tested for use on a Volkswagen Type 1 Beetle or Ghia.

INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS:

Break all front wheel nuts free approx 1/2 turn with tires on the ground, parking brake applied. Then, jack up the front of the car and place it securely on jack stands. Remove the each front wheel.
Remove the dust cap, brake line, speedo cable, spindle nuts, drum and backing plate from the spindle.
If you are using the stock spindle, it is now time to clean, wire brush, and repaint the spindle and knuckle. Lightly chamfer/ steel wool the spindle to remove any light rust. Clean all grease/ residue with a quality brake parts cleaner. If your kit came with drop spindles, you will need to coat them with a finish of your choice.
If you are using a stock spindle, attach the caliper mounting plate to the backing plate holes with the supplied flat head allen hardware. Torque to 35 ft. lbs after initial tightening in a cross pattern.
For link pin model kits, skip this next step. For ball joint models using Wilwood calipers, install inner bearing spacer on the spindle. The side with the beveled inner edge is installed facing the caliper plate.The illustration shows a properly installed spacer as the nxt illustration shows the spacer installed incorrectly.
Check the fit of the inner (large) bearing on the spindle. It should fit snugly. Once the proper bearing fit has been verified, make sure that the bearing race seats in the hub are clean and free of any dirt or shavings from machining. Clean/ chamfer as necessary, then start the bearing races and press them home to the bottom of the seats, thin side up. Be careful not to damage the races. A large socket of appropriate outside diameter is a good tool for driving the races home. Extreme force should not be necessary. Pay attention that the races press/ drive in straight, as a cocked race can damage the hub. If a race wants to press in unevenly, STOP! Find and correct the cause of the problem. Even a tiny shaving in the race seat can cause rotor "wobble" if not detected and removed, and will result in unsatisfactory braking performance or wheel wobble. Once the races are properly installed and seated to the bottom of the seat, pack the bearings with grease and install them in the races and press in the grease seal.
Now, install the rotor with bearings on the spindle. Install the notched washer and then the two locknuts with locking plate OR clamp nut (as originally supplied with your drum brakes). Adjust wheel bearing end play per VW repair procedure and spin hub/ rotor to check for looseness or binding. Torque down/ clamp the locking nut and bend the lock tabs on early cars, or tighten the 6mm Allen head screw on later cars. Install appropriate dust cap supplied with the kit (one has square cut hole for OEM speedometer cable).
You are now ready to test fit the brake caliper. There is an assortment of washers/ shims supplied with the kit. It is of UTMOST IMPORTANCE that the caliper is fitted so that A, the rotor rides in the exact center of the caliper cutout on both the top and bottom of the caliper and B, the pads contact the rotor dead flat to surface; IE, it doesn't contact the top of the pad to the rotor while not contacting at the bottom of the pad, or vice versa. Thus, the brake caliper must be installed in parallel with the brake disc.
Once it is determined that the caliper is spaced such that this has been achieved, the caliper can be fixed to the mounting plate with the appropriate shims using a high- temperature thread locker and torqued to 9Mkp (65 foot pounds). Pay attention that the caliper fixing screws (8mm Allen head), neither sticks out the opposite side of the mounting plate and contact the rotor, nor do too few threads go into the mounting plate to hold the caliper securely. Too far in is easily corrected with a washer under the bolt head, not in far enough to be safe requires a longer fixing screw of the same type which should be easily available at any local parts or hardware store in a pinch. Be sure to use fasteners of the black "hardened" type as supplied with the kit.
Prepare and install the brake pads. Using a file or a bench grinder and wearing a protective dust mask, slightly bevel the edges of the friction material on the brake pads. Apply a coating of "Silicone Adhesive" to the BACKS of the brake pads. These steps will greatly reduce "ringing" and "squealing" from the disc pads contacting the rotor.
Slip the retaining pin assembly out of the caliper by slightly lifting the inside end of the retaining assembly. Install the pads into the calipers (friction sides facing the rotor, of course!) and reinstall the retainer pin assembly, making sure it's in all the holes in both caliper and pads. Be certain that the retaining pin "locks" on the locking lug.
Reinstall the speedo cable
Allow all fluid to drain from the brake master cylinder and reservoir. Flush system with fresh fluid. If the soft lines (brake hoses) are more than a few years old, it's recommended that they be replaced at this time. Hook the brake lines up to the calipers using the supplied adapters after removing the adhesive backed inlet bore stickers. Torque all brake fittings to 1,5Mkp (11 foot- pounds). Fill the master cylinder reservoir with fresh DOT-4 fluid.
Bleed and adjust REAR brakes. Start with the right side (farthest from the master). Check and top off reservoir. Bleed the right front caliper, starting with the OUTSIDE bleeder. *NOTE*: Wilwood calipers are designed for "either side" fitment; therefore, ONLY the TOP bleeder valves are used. Repeat the procedure for the left. Again, check and top off fluid in the reservoir.
Install the front tire/ wheel assemblies. Once the road wheels are installed and torqued, remove the car from the Jack stands. *IMPORTANT: BEFORE DRIVING OFF, press the brake pedal slowly to the floor and release, repeating until the caliper pistons have moved out of their bore into driving position (firm brake pedal at or about normal height)