I want to start this article by defining it. I am biased in writing it, and what I offer solves a problem, but I want to be transparent enough to understand all points of view, so take that with a grain of salt.

Fires in a Classic Volkswagen are devastating, and they normally happen for small reasons or decisions, but in this article, we will discuss all of them.

We will first define the area of concern as the engine compartment, then other weak links in a possible fire scenario with a Classic Volkswagen.

I am going to understand that there are two possibilities with this first step. Is it a stock engine or a non-stock engine? Then, I will define the areas of concern.

Stock Engine - Points of Interest

1) Fuel line coming into the engine compartment - The original line from the factory was a cloth braided German hose with a rubber inner liner without hose clamps. Since we can agree that the original hose is no longer present, purchasing some replacement fuel lines from Autozone or Kragen is standard. All fuel hoses are NOT the same. Some have more alcohol content in making the rubber hose, and some have more oil content. The alcohol-based hose has a short life span, and the oil-based can is more flexible. Any rubber line will need a clamp to secure it, regardless of the male leads on the chassis line or the components in the compartment. You will need to maintain these lines annually to look for line checking (cracking), fuel weeping, or the smell of fuel in the engine compartment.

2) The OEM did not have a fuel filter in the engine compartment. So, if you have one, it needs to be relocated next to the trans or under the fuel tank. Plastic fuel filters are known to crack, melt, or often fail, even though they are convenient. Glass ones have a rubber gasket to seal the fuel in metal outlets. These are also known to fail.

3) If the OEM carburetor is used or an aftermarket version - OEM carbs have pressed-in brass inlets into the carb tops. Early 36HP carbs had a screw in connection. Depending on the previous owners and the life the carbs have lived, you need to go in thinking that your outlets can come out with heat cycles and vibration, causing the fuel pump to spew fuel all over a hot engine. Having a professional rebuild them almost guarantees that they will not come out as they are glued in to prevent failures. Aftermarket carbs are known to have loose or failure points.

4) OEM fuel pump being used or an aftermarket version—Several different pumps have been used, some with one-piece tops with inlets and outlets built into them and others with brass inlets pressed into the pump. The brass outlets can and have come out, allowing the vehicle to catch fire.

Non-Stock Engine - Points of interest

1) Fuel line coming into the engine compartment, what it's made of, if it has a clamp of any kind or tee's used. What comes in a kit or recommended by a builder needs to be taken with a grain of salt. If they are known to give great advice, perfect. Listen to them. If they are a salesman, understand that point moving forward. The cheap fuel line, routed incorrectly and lying on top of hot objects, must be corrected.

2) Number of Carbs and Brands. Genuine Weber's made in Italy or Spain are better than aftermarket versions. Chinese carbs are not recommended to avoid fires.

3) Filter, Pump, Pressure Regulator location.

4) An OEM fuel pump or an electric version is being used.

My recommendation for a Stock Engine

Find the original German Cloth line to use for the fuel system. Tires have a six-year shelf life before they become prone to cracking and failure. Now understanding that with all the crap gas that we have in today's fuel centers, my recommendation is to change out these lines every five years, regardless of use, and put it in a calendar. Use OEM carbs and fuel pumps that a reputable OCD mechanic has rebuilt. Ensure your fuel filter is near your transaxle like this or under your tank. Depending on the filter style, replace it annually or clean it biannually. Side note: since you still use clampless hoses and OEM parts and want a safety net, consider the Blaze Cut system or carry a fire extinguisher. Make sure you practice with your family on the protocol before something like a fire starts.

My recommendation for a Non-Stock Engine

There are two ways to make the engine compartment as close to fireproof as possible. Stainless steel braided lines with AN fittings or Stainless Steel hard lines with AN fittings. Some of the best builders will furnish a fuel line system that will work excellently; others utilize what was in the carb kit. I like eliminating the fuel pump from the engine compartment and running an external version, generally installed on the front frame head opposite the master cylinder. By going to screw-in hydraulic fitting connections, fumes are no longer present, and if you flare the lines correctly, the weeping or leaks are no longer present. A stainless hardline system can be installed on a dual carb setup, cut, and flared to the appropriate length and distance. Updating this one section of connections means the need for a fire suppression system is nonexistent. The only need for a fire extinguisher is for your stubborn friend who hasn't seen the light yet....and I stress yet.

I made a post on Facebook the other day, and many mentioned the Blaze Cut system as their go-to. It has its purpose, but it doesn't solve the problem. IMHO, it is a Band-Aid. Prevention is key. Make choices that eliminate the possibility of fires, and no need is needed. Stick to a maintenance plan and live by it for decades of enjoyment.