Chassis Fuel Line Kit Install
by Pete Skiba10/6/24
For the record, you might have experience of installing a product similar to this, but you don’t have experience installing this one. So read the guide, understand the guide, and you will have an amazing installation experience along with a great user experience.
As of 2024, the PROs have four kits available depending on your needed options. This installation will cover all of them. For this install guide, we will assume the vehicle is complete.
- Disconnect the battery.
- Pop the front hood and remove the gauge sender wires/cables/vent lines from the tank.
- Pitch the tank forward, locate the outlet, and clamp the line so you can undo the hose clamp. Remove the line from the chassis hardline connection and lift the tank out of the car.
- You will now need to empty the tank to be safe to work on. Remove the connection on the bottom of the tank. Inspect the tank internally to verify there is no rust or debris inside. Every kit we offer includes an outlet fitting with an O-ring. Lubricate the O-ring and install it on the tank. A good, snug fit is fine. Box checked.
- Jack up the car's rear, ensure the jack stands are safe, and remove the driver-side tire.
- A soft line to a hardline connection near the transaxle must be disengaged. Once that soft line is no longer connected, remove it from the vehicle through the engine compartment.
- There are multiple ways to do this next step; it is up to you to determine which makes sense. The hardline that runs through the chassis is clamped internally to line sets and brackets inside the tunnel. Depending on the amount of space you have, or if you are rebuilding the chassis with the body off, the line could be removed or just trimmed and pushed inside the exits of the chassis so they are out of sight. The only goal in installing the new braided line is to have free and clear exits.
- Once those exits are clear, this next step is open for interpretation. You need to run this flexible line from the back to the front. Having locations to make shorter runs makes this an easy task. So, I like to remove the pedals, shifter, and coupler connections to give me room to snake the hose through the tunnel. If you were doing this after the chassis has been stripped, it makes it 100 times easier with nothing in the way. Another reason the chassis inspection plate is an excellent mod to do to the chassis is that it is another perk to do this job. You don't need to remove the pedals; you have a nice-sized access hole to bring the hose in and out.
- Take the coiled hose and allow it to sit in the sun for an hour or so in a straight line. This will make it pliable as you fish it through the chassis. Wrap the end of the hose with tape so debris does not enter the hose as you fish it through the rear exit. As you are fishing it through that exit, you will grab it near the nose cone of the transaxle and bring most of the hose into the vehicle. Then fish it down the tunnel to the pedal hole or chassis inspection hole, being careful of the cables and shift linkage so it doesn't rub on either. If you don't have a chassis inspection plate hole, we recommend removing the shift linkage inspection plate behind the front axle beam to give some light and room to fish the line into the front chassis exit. Make sure to have equal amounts of hose at each exit, as you can cut this line to whatever length is needed.
- If you have the (8085), you only have two more steps: connect the -6AN 90-degree fittings to each end of the hose. Up front, you will need to be wary of the steering linkage, so route it away as much as possible. Before connecting it to the tank or engine, blow out the line.
- If you have the (8086), this kit comes with a filter only. Find a serviceable location that makes sense and tie it up to that location. Measure your lines, cut, and install your fittings. Ensure you take note of the direction in which the fuel needs to go regarding the filter. Always blow out the lines before final connections.
- If you have the (8087), this kit comes with a Facet fuel pump that needs to be connected to a keyed hot so when the ignition is on, the pump is on. Only the connections going into/out of the pump must be thread-sealed. All others have a hydraulic connection and do not need a sealant. We like mounting the pump on the brake line stand, which should be 90 degrees to the chassis. Drill two mounting holes and attach the pump and the ground wire to that bracket. The kit should come assembled to show the routing of the system, including the flow of fuel, for easy installation. Nice and firm connections will suffice; there is no need to go all Popeye on the connections.
- If you have the deluxe kit (8088), everything above will be the same but with some additions. This kit includes new brake line stands that replace the factory ones, built-in connection points for the pump, and isolators for lower noise control. These can be installed by drilling out the factory spot welds, removing the old stands, and installing the new ones with bolts or spot welds. This kit includes a military-spec wiring harness with an inline fuse ready to connect to your keyed hot. This kit also comes with a fuel pump bock-off to check every box necessary.
- After all the major components are installed, wiring is connected, hoses have been blown out multiple times, pedals, shift coupler, inspection plates, and gas tank and its connections have all been reinstalled, it is time to connect the battery and test the keyed hot. Don't start the vehicle; just make sure the pump comes on. If it does, you are on to the next step.
- The connection to the engine can be twofold. You can install a hardline kit from Airkewld or build a softline setup that includes 6AN connections to the engine bay and carbs. We assume you are running a hardline kit, and the last step is connecting to the forwardmost tin out of the factory exit hole.
- With the entire setup now installed, you will have a fume-free fuel line that will last you a lifetime. Add some fuel to the tank—not a bunch, just enough to do a leak check. Check all your connections before starting your VW. If all checks out, fill up and letter rip tater chip!
Maintenance Schedule
If your kit has a 40-micron fuel filter, we recommend you service it yearly. It can be cleaned or replaced as needed. Always check your connections. Check your fitting connection annually. It's better to be safe than sorry.
The fuel pump we use in our kits was based on the fact of being able to find replacements anywhere in the world. Like AutoZone, Kragen, PepBoys, etc. Part# 40177N is the part we use.
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