For the record, you might have experience of installing a product
similar to this, but you don’t have experience installing this one. So
read the guide, understand the guide, and you will have an amazing
installation experience along with a great user experience.
Loosen the lug nuts 1/4 turn before jacking the vehicle up. Jack up the
front end and place on jack stands. Remove the wheels and place them
under the vehicle as an additional fail-safe. Remove the circlip holding
the speedo cable on the driver's side (LHD) and save. I like to use a
piece of clear tap to keep the circlip from falling in a crack or
getting lost. Stick it to your beer. There are several techniques for
removing these dust caps. Our favorite is with an oversized set of
channel locks. Grab each edge and rock the cap up and down until it
falls off. Repeat on the passenger side. On link pin models (Part#
4150g2), a lock tab must be bent over to remove the spindle nuts in
between the lock nuts. Save all the nuts and thrust washers; you will
reuse them again. Once removed, it is time to pull off the old drum. Do
not try and pry it off. Adjust the brake shoe adjusting stars with a
brake spoon to give you slop in the drum to wiggle off. Tap the drum on
the edge with a rubber mallet until the drum falls off. Ensure you have a
container to catch the brake fluid once you start this step. Remove the
bleeder on the back side of the backing plate and loosen/remove the
brake line. Remove the three bolts on each side and remove the backing
plates.
If you are using the stock or drop drum spindle, it is
time to clean, wire brush and repaint the spindle and knuckle. Lightly
chamfer and steel wool the spindle to remove any light rust. Clean all
grease/residue with a quality brake parts cleaner. It is time to verify
you ordered/have the right parts to install the brakes. Remove your
bearings from the package and test fit the inner and outer bearings
before packing them. Did they fit? If yes, proceed with the
installation. Did they not? Call us 1-623-518-3537. These brakes require
you to have a drop DRUM spindle or a stock DRUM spindle to attach our
caliper brackets. You can safely identify this if you removed drum
brakes, you have them already, or if you purchased spindles, you should
see THREE threaded holes surrounding them. If you have either of these,
proceed to the next steps. If not, get in touch with us. Attach the
caliper mounting plate with the caliper mounting flange angling
downwards to the backing plate holes with the supplied flathead Allen
hardware and Loctite. If you happen to have the new forged Link Pin EMPI
spindles, we included a shorter set of bolt that are 20mm in length as
one of the threaded holes is shallower than the others. Torque to 35ft.
lbs after initial tightening in a cross pattern.
For (Link Pin
Part# 4150g2) model kits , skip this next step. For (Ball Joint Part#
4151g2 & 4152g2) models, install an inner bearing spacer on the
spindle. The side with the beveled inner edge is installed facing the
caliper plate.
Clean/chamfer as necessary, then start the
bearing races and press them home to the bottom of the seats thin side
up. Be careful not to damage the hubs/races. The PRO’s use a bearing
race install tool but a large socket of appropriate outside diameter can
work. Extreme force should not be necessary. Pay attention to the races
as they press/drive in straight, as a cocked race can damage the hub.
If a race wants to press in unevenly, STOP! Find and correct the cause
of the problem. Even a tiny shaving in the race seat can cause rotor
"wobble" if not detected and removed, resulting in unsatisfactory
braking performance. Once the races are appropriately installed and
seated to the bottom of the seat, it's time to pack the bearings with
grease and install them in the races. Once they are placed in the
rotors, remove any grease or oily residue on the rotors where the seal
may lie. Tap the seal in dry. If you apply grease to the seal to install
it, it will pop out. Use a brake cleaner to remove the grease on the
seal and hub. Once the seal is in and is not popping back out, grease
the seal, specifically in the V-Groove. This will prevent the seal from
burning off. Apply some grease to the spindle shaft and seal race area.
Now install the rotor with bearings onto the spindle. Install the
notched thrust washer, then tighten one of the lock nuts for the 4150g2
kits OR clamp nut on the 4151g2 & 4152g2 kits. Adjust the wheel
bearing end play by spinning the rotor while tightening the spindle nut.
Once you can no longer spin the rotor, back the nut off 1/4 turn. Twin
nut applications (Link Pin 4150g2 Kits), install the supplied lock tab
with the second lock nut, and tighten. Now bend the tabs over to finish
the process. (Ball Joint 4151g2 & 4152g2 applications), tighten the
6mm Allen head screw to complete the process.
Now for the grease
caps. Two different caps will be supplied with your kit—one for the
speedo cable side and one for the other. You can identify which one by
looking at the back side of the cap and identifying the square cut out
inside the cap. Starting on the driver's side, with the supplied Allen
wrench, remove the Airkewld star that covers this connection. Once
removed, you should grease your speedo cable and slide it through the
spindle. Once it protrudes the spindle, rotate the dust cap until it
engages with the square in the cap, and slide the original c-clip to
retain the cable to the cap. With the supplied stainless steel cap
hardware, apply a thin coat of anti-seize to the screws and install them
into the cap and hub using the provided Allen wrench. Do not
over-tighten. It is time to install the Airkewld star over the top to
finalize the cap install. With the supplied Allen wrench and a thin coat
of anti-seize, install the stainless steel screws and do not
over-tighten. Sometime, rotating the screws counter clockwise within the
threaded location, you can hear the screw fall into place. Then you can
tighten easily.
You are now ready to test-fit the brake
caliper. There is an assortment of washers/shims supplied with the kit.
Please do your best to center the caliper cutout on both the top and
bottom of the caliper, and the pads contact the rotor dead flat to the
surface; IE, it doesn't contact the top of the pad to the rotor while
not contacting at the bottom of the pad or vice versa. Thus the brake
caliper must be installed in parallel with the brake disc. Once it is
determined that the caliper is spaced such that this has been achieved,
the caliper can be fixed to the mounting plate with the appropriate
shims using Loctite and torqued to 28 ft-lbs. Pay attention that the
caliper fixing screws neither stick out the opposite side of the
mounting plate and contact the rotor nor do too few threads go into the
mounting plate to hold the caliper securely. Too far in is easily
corrected with a washer under the bolt head; not far enough to be safe
requires a longer fixing screw. Slip the retaining pin assembly out of
the caliper by slightly lifting the inside end of the retaining
assembly. Install the pads into the calipers (friction sides facing the
rotor, of course!) and reinstall the retainer pin assembly, ensuring
it's in all the holes in the caliper and pads. Be sure that the
retaining pin "locks" on the locking lug.
Next, it's time to
address the brake lines. (Porsche 356 Kits), comes with a brass-fitting
adapter to use with your factory rubber hoses. With a thread sealant of
your choice, coat the fitting or the male side of your stainless hoses
supplied with your kits. To install it into the caliper, look for the
sticker on the back. Remove the sticker and install the adapter. You
must place the same thread sealant on the fitting to ensure proper
sealing properties.
Remove the factory master cylinder by
breaking loose all the brake lines. Remove the brake light switch,
wires, and the lead/‘s for the reservoir bottle. From inside the
vehicle, near the pedals, you will see two bolts (13mm Socket) attaching
the master cylinder to the firewall. Break them loose, but be careful.
There are spacers inside, and they can fall inside the channel if you
are hasty. Now remove the bolts. Remove the brake lines and allow all
fluid to drain from the master cylinder and reservoir. The newly
supplied master cylinder must be cleaned and painted to avoid rusting.
Once coated, install the provided brake light switches with a thread
sealant of your choice. Place a small amount of grease on the inside of
the master cylinder where the push rod will be pushing against. If your
car does not have the spacers, you need them, and we offer them. You
need these in place to have a proper working system. Add some blue
Loctite to the bolts that fasten to the master cylinder. We also offer
stainless steel replacements if you need them. When routing the brake
lines, the rearmost port goes to the rear, and the top and the
forwardmost ports are for the right and left front, respectively. The
lower ports are for the brake light switches. Tighten all the fittings
to avoid leaks. The brake actuating rod must have free play. It should
have about 1/8" of free play. If it does not, we recommend removing the
entire actuating rod, breaking the jam nut loose outside the vehicle to
make adjusting it much more manageable. Buffing the threads and adding
anti-seize to the threads make the job easy. Once adjusted, tighten and
check again. Connect the hoses to the reservoir or install your on-top
reservoir.
Fill with DOT 3 brake fluid and leave the cap off
while bleeding the brakes. Common knowledge in bleeding disc brakes
tells you to bleed the furthest away. When working with a disc brake
master like the one supplied, you need to bleed the first circuit to be
able to bleed the second circuit completely. Start with the right side
front, left side front, and right side rear, and finish with the left
rear. Remember to check and top off the fluid frequently. *NOTE*:
Wilwood calipers are designed for "either side" fitment; therefore, ONLY
the TOP bleeder valves are used, and yes, you will need to bleed all of
the top bleeders.
Properly adjusting the rear brakes will give
you an even nicer pedal feel when only installing the front disc brake
application. Tip - Tighten the adjustment stars with a brake spoon until
the rear drums do not move. Pump up the brakes 3-5 times, and you will
notice that the drum will turn again. Adjust them tighter until the drum
does not move again. Then pump them up again. Repeat these steps until
the drum does not move after pumping them up. Then back them off so that
the drum will turn and not drag. Doing this process will center the
shoe in the drum and allow the shoe to wear evenly after doing these
steps to adjust your brake shoes correctly and your e-brake cables.
Install the front tire/wheel assemblies. Once the road wheels are
installed and torqued remove the car from the jack stands IMPORTANT: BEFORE DRIVING OFF,
press the brake pedal slowly to the floor and release, repeating until
the caliper pistons have moved out of their bore into the driving
position (firm brake pedal at or about standard height)
Pad and Rotor Bedding:
Bedding is a "real conditions" heat cycle and the final step in
preparing the pads and rotors for service. All pads especially cast iron
rotors operated at sustained high temperatures will provide longer
service life and smoother braking when adequately bedded. Bedding can be
done either in the vehicle or on a unique bedding dyno that can
realistically duplicate the torque loads, pressure, and temperature that
will be realized in the vehicle.
Rotor Bedding: Rotor
bedding is an essential element to high-level performance and
durability. It is most critical with cast iron rotors. Cast iron is
exceptionally well suited to use as a brake rotor. Still, it can be
susceptible to thermal stress distortion and even cracking if subjected
to rapid changes in temperature when it's new. The cracking sound you
may hear when pouring a favorite beverage over a glass of ice is thermal
shock. A proper bedding cycle will gradually bring the rotors up to
temperature, allowing them to cool slowly and entirely to "season" and
relieve any remaining stresses from the casting and machining processes.
With some compounds, a layer of pad material may also be embedded in
the rotor face. It is essential that this "transfer layer" be deposited
slowly and smoothly. Otherwise, pedal pulsing and compromised friction
values can result.
The bedding process is the final "heat cure"
for the pads. This final bedding cure differs from an oven heat cure in
that the oven heat cure does not include the pressure torque and
elevated surface temperatures necessary to condition the pad for service
properly. With the rotors, new pads must be gradually brought to
temperature and then slowly cooled. If the pads are put into hard
service right from the start, damage from fractures or accelerated
deterioration due to extreme temperature variations between the surface
and the body of the pad can occur. Overall poor performance with the
potential for rotor damage is often the result.
Bedding Steps:
Once the brake system has been tested and determined safe to operate
the vehicle, follow these steps for bedding of all pad materials and
rotors. Begin with a series of 8-10 light stops from approximately 30
MPH down to 15 MPH allowing 20-30 seconds for cooling between each stop.
Progress to a series of 8-10 moderate stops from around 45 MPH down to
30 MPH allowing the 20-30 second cool down period between each stop.
Proceed with a series of 8-10 hard stops from 55-65 MPH down to 25 MPH
allowing 20-30 seconds of cool-down time between each stop. Drive at a
moderate cruising speed with the least brake contact possible until most
of the heat has dissipated from the brakes. Avoid sitting stopped with
the brake pedal depressed to hold the car in place during this time.
Park the vehicle and allow the brakes to cool to ambient air
temperature.
Notes: A more positive feel from the brakes
should develop during the bedding process. This is an indication that
the bed in the process is working. If any brake fade is observed during
the hard stops, it may indicate that the brakes have been more than
adequately heated. Begin cooling the brakes with light driving and
without brake contact immediately.
Bolt Pattern Removal:
If you plan on changing these, understand the torque settings. You will
need a 5/16” Allen socket to remove these bolts. You must add blue
Loctite and torque to 75 ft lbs when installing the new one. It is
recommended to use a breaker bar and a lever between the studs to break
loose the Allen bolts. A large impact will break the Allen socket or
strip the bolt.
Front Rotor Replacement: If you replace
your rotors, you will need a 7/32” Allen socket. When installing, you
must use blue Loctite and torque to 33 ft-lbs. It is recommended to use a
breaker bar and a lever between the studs to break loose the Allen
bolts. A large impact will break the Allen socket or strip the bolt.
Porsche 356 Tips: A late model 914 master cylinder is needed to work with these brakes.
You
get done installing your brand-new disc brake kit, bleed it out, and
the pedal is not there. Pump it up a few times, and it gets harder and
harder. Guess what? It still has air in the system.
Lug Nuts/Studs:
All brake kits supplied come in 14mm x 1.50 studs. 12mm x 1.50 studs
can be special ordered if needed. Every wheel needs a specific lug nut
to work. Some take a 60 degree tapered seat, some a ball seat and some, a
mag lug seat. Know what you need so that when you install these brakes,
you have the right ones handy. Some times the studs can be longer than
needed. Use a cut off device of your choice to trim the studs to the
desired length.
Replacement Parts (4150g2) - Inner Seal - 111405641B | Inner Bearing - 111405627 | Outer Bearing - 111405647 (4151g2
- Stock Spindles) - Inner Seal - 131405641A | Inner Bearing - 311405625
| Outer Bearing - 311405625 (Drop Spindle Equipped - Same as below) (4152g2) - Inner Seal - 111405641B | Inner Bearing - 311405625B | Outer Bearing - 311405645
