US Dollars
IRS Axle Air Ride Install
The cleanest way to convert your 1969–1977 IRS-equipped VW from torsion-sprung to floating air ride. Bump stops, short shocks, 2,500lb bags, all the brackets — a one-weekend project that gives you on-the-fly stance for life.
"Take control of your ride height anytime, anywhere. Our premium Air Ride Kit turns your Classic VW into the perfect blend of style, comfort, and adjustability."
From Torsion-Sprung to Floating on a Pillow.
The IRS rear suspension that VW dropped into the 1969 Beetle was a big upgrade over the swing axle — CV joints, diagonal trailing arms, way better handling at speed. But the torsion bars are still torsion bars, and the ride is still 1970s rough.
The Airkewld IRS Air Ride Kit replaces the torsion-bar setup with 2,500lb air bags on purpose-built brackets, plus the bump stops you need to protect CV joint angles at lowest point. Push a button, settle to lay-frame, then air up to highway height for the drive home.
Soft ride. Show stance on demand. Built for the car you actually drive.
Fits 1969–1977 IRS-equipped Beetle, Ghia, Super Beetle, and Thing. Body-off install — this is the right way to do it. Available as a standalone rear kit or as part of a complete (front + rear) bundle.
Body-Off Means One Less Way to Get Hurt.
IRS still uses torsion bars, and IRS torsion bars still spring DOWN with violent force when you unload them. That's reason number one this kit is a body-off job. With the body off and the chassis on stands, you have line of sight, room to swing a pry bar, and clearance to step away. Body-on means you're working blind, in tight quarters, with stored energy six inches from your face.
- Body-off is mandatory for this install. Plan the time. Two hours up front saves you fourteen hours of frustration.
- Stand to the FRONT when releasing torsion bar tension. Goggles on. Long pry bar.
- Watch CV joint angles at lowest ride height. Bump stops are in the kit for exactly this — install them and verify clearance before you commit to a final weld.
- If you've never done this before, watch a full IRS air-ride install on YouTube end-to-end before you start.
The Numbers You Need Before You Cut
Air Bags
2,500 lbOne pair, rear
Bump Stops
IncludedProtect CV joint angles
Body
Off RequiredPlan the time
Welding
Tack → Cycle → WeldNever weld first
IRS-Only · 1969 and Newer
✓ Fits
- 1969–1977 Beetle
- 1969–1975 Karmann Ghia
- 1971–1979 Super Beetle
- 1973–1974 Type 181 Thing
- Kit cars on a Type 1 IRS rear suspension
✗ Does NOT Fit
- Type 2 Bus — different rear architecture
- Type 3 (Squareback, Notchback, Fastback) — different chassis
- Swing-axle rear suspensions (1949–1968) — see the link below
- Stock reduction-gear-box transaxles
- Straight-axle conversions
Complete IRS Rear Kit Contents
Everything you need to convert the IRS rear from torsion-sprung to air ride. Add basic shop tools and a welder (next section) and you're ready to start.
- IRS Axle Bracket Kit — bag mounts, trailing-arm hangers, hardware
- 2,500 lb Air Bags (1 pair, rear)
- Short Shocks matched to the lowered ride height
- Bump Stops — critical for CV joint protection at lowest point
- Hardware Pack — bolts, washers, nylocs
- Printed Instructions (this guide)
Two Ways to Air Ride Your IRS Build
Just doing the rear? Grab the standalone kit. Want front + rear in one box? Pick the complete kit.
IRS Rear Air Ride Kit
Just the rear. For builders who already have a front air-ride solution or are doing the rear separately. Fits 1969–1977 IRS Beetle, Ghia, Super, and Thing. Part #111 000 007.
Shop Rear Kit →
Complete Air Ride Kit
Front + rear in one box. The most popular pick for 1969–1977 IRS builds — Beetle, Ghia, Super Beetle, and Thing on a single PO. Part #111 000 399.
Shop Complete →Filming the Install Series
We're shooting an end-to-end IRS air-ride install series the same way we did for the swing-axle kit. Drops on YouTube as soon as it's edited.
Subscribe to Airkewld on YouTube for the alert when it goes live.
The Top 5 Install Mistakes — And How to Avoid Them
These five are the difference between a clean install and a rework. Read them. Live them.
Skipping Body Removal
Body-off is mandatory on this kit. Body-on means working blind in tight quarters with stored torsion-bar energy six inches from your face. Two hours of body removal up front saves you fourteen hours of frustration.
Releasing Torsion Bar Tension Unsafely
IRS still has torsion bars. They still spring DOWN hard when unloaded. Stand to the front, wear safety goggles, expect violent release. Body-off makes this safer; it doesn't make it safe.
Ignoring CV Joint Angles at Lowest Point
IRS uses CV joints — at extreme drop angles they bind, click, and eventually fail. Install the supplied bump stops, cycle full travel, verify CV angles BEFORE you commit to a final weld on the bag mounts.
Welding Bag Mounts Before Cycling
Tack-weld only, install bag, cycle full travel, verify clearance and CV angles. THEN remove bag and finish-weld. Fully welding first locks in any binding and the bag pays for it.
Air Lines Routed Where the Axle Moves
IRS trailing arms travel a lot. Keep tubing well clear of the axle path, the trailing arm sweep, and the CV joint boots. Chafe-through is silent.
Tools Required · Shop the Build
A welder is non-negotiable for this install. If you don't own one, find a friend with a MIG or a local fab shop. Affiliate links support the channel — same price to you.
Jack & Jack Stands
Lift, pit, or pair of stands rated for vehicle weight. With body off, the chassis rides on stands while you work.
Shop on Amazon
Metric Socket Set
Full metric range. You'll touch 10mm through 19mm sockets across the body bolts, trailing-arm hardware, and shock mounts.
Shop on Amazon
Long Pry Bar
For releasing the torsion bar from its perch. Length = leverage = distance from the violent release.
Shop on Amazon
Angle Grinder
For grinding the trailing arm and torsion housing surfaces clean where the bag mount welds attach.
Shop on Amazon
MIG Welder
Required. MIG recommended for the bag-mount welds. Tack first, cycle, then finish-weld.
Shop on Amazon
Safety Goggles
Non-negotiable. Torsion bar release sends old undercoat and casting flash flying. Welding sparks too.
Shop on Amazon
Teflon Tape
For the 1/2″ reducer-to-bag NPT connections. Tape goes on the male threads only.
Shop on Amazon
Soapy Solution
Spray bottle of dish soap + water. For leak-testing every air-line connection under pressure.
Shop on AmazonAirkewld is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program. As an Amazon Associate, we earn from qualifying purchases — at no additional cost to you.
Step by Step · The Way We'd Run It
Read each phase. Don't skip the Pro Tips. Body-off is mandatory — if you haven't pulled the body yet, that's your first move before any of this.
Body Off & Rear Access
- Disconnect battery + e-brake cables. Drain fuel tank if it'll come off with the body.
- Remove body bolts (typically 17 to 22 bolts depending on year). Lift body clear, place on stands or sawhorses.
- Chassis on stands at the front beam and rear torsion housing. Remove rear wheels, brake drums, and trailing-arm-side brake hardware.
- Remove rear shocks (save the hardware).
- Disconnect axle CV joints from the trailing arms. Support the trailing arms before disengaging the spring plate from the torsion bar.
Torsion Bar & Spring Plate
- Remove spring plate cover bolts.
- SAFETY: Stand to the FRONT, goggles on. Pry the spring plate off its perch — it will spring DOWN HARD.
- Pull torsion bars and rubber doughnuts. Do NOT damage the doughnuts — they get reused for repositioning.
- Remove trailing arms from the torsion housing. Set aside.
The phase content here mirrors the swing-axle install pattern adapted for IRS. Once you have the printed AK-AR-004 install guide PDF in hand, defer to those exact step orderings — especially around the trailing-arm hanger geometry and bag-mount position, which are IRS-specific.
Trailing Arm Hangers
- Grind paint / undercoat off the torsion housing where the new trailing-arm hangers will weld.
- Position supplied hangers per the kit instructions; level + parallel to the torsion tube.
- Tack-weld only at this stage. Bolt the trailing arm to the new hanger and verify clearance/geometry before any final weld.
- Reinstall axle hardware (CV joints) loosely; verify travel range.
Air Bag Mounts
- Bolt the air bag to the trailing arm bracket (loose). Bolt the upper bag mount to the bag (loose).
- Lift suspension to its travel stop. Deflate the bag — at lowest point it must read as two donuts stacked.
- Tack-weld the upper mount in place. Cycle full travel.
- CV joint check at lowest point. If joints bind or click, raise the lowest point until they clear. Bump stops set the floor.
- Verify NO contact at any point in travel. Remove bag, finish-weld, paint, reinstall.
The lowest ride height isn't determined by how flat the bag will go — it's determined by where the CV joints stop being happy. Aim low, cycle, listen for click/bind. Bump stops protect the CV joints from going past that limit. Set them once and forget them.
Shocks & Bump Stops
- Press supplied steel spacers into both shock ends — prevents bushing crush at torque.
- Install upper shock with original hardware; tighten.
- Install lower shock with the supplied bolt + stepped bushings; cap with washer + nyloc; tighten.
- Install supplied bump stops at the position confirmed during Phase 4 cycling. These set the floor for CV joint protection.
Air Lines, Body On & Final Test
- 1/2″ reducers into bags with Teflon tape. 90° push-to-connect fittings into reducers.
- Cut tubing SQUARE; push fully into fittings; pull-test EVERY joint. Soap-test all connections under pressure.
- Route lines AWAY from axle tube, trailing arm sweep, and CV joint boots. Secure with clamps.
- Reinstall body. Reconnect e-brake cables, brake hardware, fuel lines.
- Reinstall wheels. Inflate before lowering the vehicle.
- Lower; verify full travel · check ride height · confirm bag clearance and CV joint angles through up-and-down cycles.
"Did the body off, took my time, and the install was clean. CV joints happy, ride height adjustable, no surprises."
— Posted by Jim Flowers"Bump stops set the floor at the perfect height — CV joints never click, never bind. Whole rear floats."
— posted by raymond Miller"Took a weekend with body off — weekend well spent. Daily driver Super Beetle that lays frame at every show."
— posted by Jon WhyteThe Questions We Get Most
Is welding required for this kit?
Yes. Rear kits require welding. The bag mounts and trailing-arm hangers weld to the torsion housing. MIG is recommended. If you don't own a welder, find a fab shop or a friend with one.
Does the body need to come off to install the air ride?
To do it right, yes. If you have a pit or lift, it can make it easier — but the PROs recommend removing the body. It only takes 1–2 hours and the ease of installation triples. For the IRS install specifically, body-off is what we'd consider mandatory — CV joint angles, trailing arm geometry, and welder access all become much simpler with the body out of the way.
Can the heaters still work with the air ride kit installed?
Simple answer: no. If you're fabrication-friendly, you can make it work — but it requires custom routing around the new bag mount and trailing-arm hardware. Most builders accept the heat-loss tradeoff for the ride quality.
How long does the install take?
16 hours, or one weekend. Plan a Saturday + Sunday (or two long evenings) and you'll have time for body removal, the rear install, body reinstall, and a full leak/CV check.
Will it fit my VW?
Yes if you have a 1969–1977 Type 1 with the IRS rear suspension — that includes the Beetle (1969–1977), Karmann Ghia (1969–1975), Super Beetle (1971–1979), Type 181 Thing (1973–1974), and kit cars on the same IRS rear. Does NOT fit Type 2 Bus, Type 3, swing-axle rears (1949–1968 — we have a separate kit for those), or straight-axle conversions.
Can I use an electronic air management kit (AMK) with your air ride?
You can. Heads up though: we won't be able to tech-support any AMK-specific issue, because we don't have the ability to recreate problems with every vendor's AMK and their firmware updates. The mechanical install on this guide doesn't change — only the controller wiring after the bags are mounted.
Do the bump stops really matter that much?
Yes — this is where IRS air ride differs from swing axle. IRS uses CV joints at the trailing-arm-to-axle interface. At extreme drop angles, CVs bind, click, and eventually fail. The bump stops in this kit set the floor at a height where the CV joints stay happy. Install them. Don't skip them. Don't trim them down "for more drop" — you'll be replacing CV joints in 6 months.
Is there anything else I'll need with this kit?
No — the kit ships with everything mechanical including bump stops. Standard tools and a welder are on you (see the Tools section). The complete kit also bundles the front air-ride solution if you're doing the whole car.
What's the difference between the Standalone and the Complete kit?
The Standalone IRS Rear Kit (#111 000 007) is just the rear air ride conversion (this install guide). The Complete Kit (#111 000 003) bundles the rear with our front air-ride solution — everything you need to put a 1969–1977 IRS Beetle, Ghia, Super, or Thing on air front-and-back.
What's your warranty?
If any component in the kit ever fails from a manufacturing defect, we replace it. Period. Email help@airkewld.com with a photo and your order number.
Real Humans. Real Phones. Real VW People.
Compatibility questions, CV-joint angle worries, mid-install confusion — reach out before you make a cut you can't undo. We pick up the phone. We answer the email.