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Learn / Front Suspension / Beam & Spindle Series  ·  AK-BS-002 · Rev 2.0
Beam & Spindle Series · Part 2 · Engineering Install & Setup

How To: Install a PRObuilt Beam

Remove, install, torque and set up your PRObuilt assembled beam in a classic VW. Process — not parts — determines ride quality.

Beam & Spindle Series · Classic VW Front End
Part 1
Do the beams swap?
Part 2 · You are here
Install the beam
PRObuilt beam install & torque
Part 3
Every spindle, by model & year
Installing a PRObuilt assembled beam in a classic VW
01 · Before you start

Read the whole guide before you unpack

Do
Measure ground to fender arch, all four corners
Write it down. You'll compare at the end.
Do
Use a real torque wrench
Not an impact gun, not by feel.
Don't
Don't open the brake lines
Remove the brakes with the lines attached so you don't have to bleed them.
Don't
Don't use a pickle fork on the tie rods
Tools: tape measure, floor jack and jack stands (a two-post lift is even better), fuel line pinch-off pliers, an air hammer, penetrating oil, a thread chaser for 12 mm × 1.50, a torque wrench, anti-seize, grease, and moving pads or blankets to protect the beam.
02 · Removal

Take out the old beam

1
Measure ground to upper fender arch at each corner and write it down
2
Loosen the lug nuts ¼ turn
3
Jack up the front and set stands under the chassis
Or use a two-post lift. Pull the wheels and slide them under the chassis as a fail-safe.
4
Remove the gas tank
Lift the hood and remove the 4 tank bolts. Remove the vent line if equipped, lift the tank, pinch the fuel line and pull the tank.
5
Disconnect the steering column shaft from the steering box, including the horn wire
6
Remove the two body-to-beam bolts
Early cars have them outside the tank area; late cars inside it.
7
Pull the speedometer cable from the left spindle
Remove the circlip from the dust cap and pull the cable out the back of the spindle.
8
Remove the brakes, lines attached
Skip this if you bought BAD Series brakes with your beam. Remove dust caps, spindle nuts and drums, then the backing plates.
9
Remove the long tie rod assembly
Loosen the nuts and use an air hammer to push the tie rod end through the spindle without damaging threads or paint.
10
Soak the beam bolts
Penetrating oil on every beam bolt. Let it work.
11
Lower the old beam
Break the bolts loose, put a jack under the beam, remove the bolts, and lower it with a helper balancing it.
03 · Install

Put the PRObuilt beam in

1
Chase the frame head threads (12 mm × 1.50) with old or new hardware
2
Anti-seize the beam bolts
If you bought the PRObuilt install kit, its stainless beam bolts get anti-seize.
3
Unbox and unwrap the beam
Before unbolting it from the pallet, remove the long tie rod assembly and steering damper. They're loose and marked with a grey label.
4
Protect the finish
Lay blankets, moving pads or cardboard under the car, pad the jack, and bag the shock towers so nothing scuffs.
5
Fit the lower body mount rubbers
Install kit only. A little grease, then onto the body bungs on the beam.
6
Jack the beam into place
With a helper balancing it. Be patient.
7
Install the beam bolts to 32 ft-lb
Don't over-tighten.
8
Fit the upper body mount rubbers
Install kit only. Lube them and seat them in the factory locations.
9
Install the body-to-beam bolts to 11 ft-lb
10
Install the new tie rod assembly and torque the ends to 33 ft-lb
11
Center the steering
The box ships centered. Fit the coupler, count steering wheel turns lock to lock, go back half, and center the wheel on the shaft.
12
Reinstall stock brakes
Backing plates, drums and dust caps to factory specs.
13
Refit the speedometer cable
Grease the outer cable, push it through the spindle, refit the circlip.
14
Reinstall the fuel line, gas tank and vent line to factory specs
15
Wheels on, set it down, re-measure
Compare to your starting numbers, left to right.
04 · Torque engineering

Torque specs

Fastener Torque
Beam to frame head bolts 32 ft-lb
Body to beam bolts 11 ft-lb
Steering box to beam 18 ft-lb
Pitman arm 51 ft-lb
Steering coupler bolts 22 ft-lb
Tie rod ends 33 ft-lb
Use a torque wrench. Steering box, pitman arm and coupler values are only valid with factory Kamax-style or Airkewld hardware. Under-torqued steering hardware feels exactly like steering play. See Steering Play: Find the Worn Part.
05 · Setup

Stage 1 and Stage 2

Stage 1 · Adjustable
Set ride height
How
  • Set the car on the ground and preload the suspension.
  • To raise it: loosen all the jam nuts and screw the adjustment bolts (pointing down) upward.
  • Ball joint beams: loosen the center grub screws while you adjust.
  • To lower it: back the adjustment bolts out in equal increments, then preload and re-check.
  • Adjustable shocks ship on the softest setting; firm them up to taste.
Stage 2 · Air ride
Run the air lines
How
  • Route the air lines inside the trunk area, cleanly, so connections are easy.
  • Follow the air management kit's own install instructions.
  • Air ride install guides: link pin · ball joint.
Changed the height at all? Get a digital FOUR-wheel alignment, not a two-wheel, so the tires last and the car drives right.
06 · Troubleshooting

Common post-install questions

Symptom
Play in the steering
Check for
  • 95% of post-install play is in the steering column: the two tees and the C-clamp are almost never tight enough for the serrations to bite.
  • Rock the wheel with a helper and inspect column, tie rod ends, spindles, box-to-beam and pitman arm.
  • Call or text before touching the adjuster on top of the box. It shouldn't need adjusting until the box is broken in.
Symptom
Ride is firmer than stock
Check for
  • Sport shocks: that's as smooth as it gets. Grease all four zerks and let it break in.
  • Adjustable shocks: work through the clicks until it feels right.
Symptom
Stage 1 adjusters near the ground
Fix
  • Once the height is set, measure the thread showing below the adjuster bracket.
  • Trim that much off the slider end (not the Allen end) and reinstall, flush with the jam nut.
  • More in Don’t Rip Off Your Adjusters.
Symptom
Only ~2″ of shock shaft showing
Answer
  • That's normal on a slammed car. The suspension moves about 1.5″ up and 1.5″ down in normal travel.
07 · Maintenance

Keep it tight

Every oil change
Grease every zerk
From time to time
Check your bolts
Better to check than assume.
Every 5,000 miles
Check alignment
Often
Check your lugs
08 · Cores

$150 for your old beam core

We don't need the whole beam: the arms, spindles, hardware, and the steering box with pitman arm and clamp. Pack them in a lidded bucket or a sturdy box and call or text us to get your $150 core credit.

Process — Not Parts — Determines Performance
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