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Lowering Series · Part 5 · Type 2 Bus Install
Type 2 PRObuilt Drop Spindles
Remove, ship, shim and install: the PRO procedure for dropped spindles on a classic VW Bus, including the link pin shim chart.
Lowering Series · Classic VW Beetle, Ghia & Type 2 Bus
Part 5 · You are here
Bus drop spindles
Install guide & shim chart
01 · Before you start
Read the whole guide first
Do
Mask the threads and bearing surfaces before shipping
Don't
Don't break the brake lines loose
Leave them connected so you don't have to bleed the brakes.
Don't
Don't use a pickle fork on the tie rods
Do
Measure both trailing arms
Each side often has a different offset.
Tools you'll need: jack and jack stands, 17 mm wrenches, an air hammer (or a hammer, used carefully), a straightedge and ruler for the trailing arm offset, a tape measure for the rough alignment, and a grease gun with a fresh tube.
02 · Part A
Remove your spindles
1
Loosen the lug nuts ¼ turn
2
Jack up the front and set stands under the chassis
3
Pull the wheels
Slide them under the chassis as a fail-safe.
4
Disconnect the battery
5
Remove the speedometer cable circlip (driver's side)
A piece of clear tape keeps it from disappearing into a crack.
6
Remove the dust cap, spindle nuts and drum
Unbolt the backing plate (4 bolts) and set it aside with the brake line still connected.
7
Release the outer tie rod ends
Back the 17 mm nuts off partway. Pop the taper with an air hammer from below, or tap the side of the spindle toward its heaviest section until it lets go. No pickle forks.
8
Remove the four link pin bolts
17 mm bolts and nuts. The link pin's outer end is also 17 mm; rotate it to free the bolts.
9
Remove the spindle assembly and repeat on the passenger side
03 · Ship them in
Send them to the PROs
Mask the spindle threads and bearing surfaces with electrical tape so they aren't damaged in transit. Pack them in a sturdy box or bucket so they can't move around, and drop it off at FedEx. The shipment is insured against damage or loss in transit.
Raw or powder coated? Raw spindles must be painted before installation. Powder-coated spindles are ready to install.
04 · The critical step
Measure the offset, set the shims
The PROs reverse the kingpins on dropped spindles: the kingpin retaining bolt now faces the inside of the vehicle, 180° from stock. The link pin needle bearings and races are already in the spindles.
Before installing, measure the offset of your trailing arms to set the shim stack for factory camber. The lower trailing arm end is longer than the upper. Lay a straightedge across the bottom arm end and measure the offset to the top arm. Measure both sides.
| Offset | Upper inner (A) | Upper outer (B) | Lower inner (C) | Lower outer (D) |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 5.5 mm | 2 | 6 | 5 | 3 |
| 6 mm | 2 | 6 | 4 | 4 |
| 6.5 mm | 3 | 5 | 4 | 4 |
| 7 mm | 3 | 5 | 3 | 5 |
| 7.5 mm | 4 | 4 | 3 | 5 |
| 8 mm | 4 | 4 | 2 | 6 |
| 8.5 mm | 5 | 3 | 2 | 6 |
Each link pin takes eight shims. The chart shows where they go for proper camber. Lube the shims and needle bearings as you assemble. Link pins, needle bearings and shims are all you need: no stock washers, O-rings or seals.
Print the worksheet and write in your shim count for each side.
05 · Part B
Install the dropped spindles
1
Assemble the link pins with your shim stack
Install the retaining bolts and tighten the link pin as tight as you can by hand.
2
Back the link pin off 1/16 turn
Critical. The shims are thrust washers and need room to spin. Skip this and they wear out early, the camber drifts, and the whole link pin assembly wears.
3
Check the lower link pin bolt clearance
Depending on ride height, its head can hit the spindle's tie rod arm. Grind the head slightly or use a button-head bolt. Not sure? Drive it, and look for worn paint on the arm.
4
Fit the tie rods from the bottom
The tie rod hole is reamed to Bay size so the tie rod mounts from below, for more frame-rail clearance. You need two adjustable tie rods, each with a Split end (to the swing lever) and a Bay end (to the spindle). Split and Bay adjustable rods are very close in length; just swap the ends.
5
Rotate the backing plates 180°
The brake line now sits at the bottom, for better hose and speedo cable routing. Make sure both allow full steering travel.
6
Adjust the wheel bearings
Tighten the spindle nut until the drum no longer spins with force, then back it off ¼ turn.
7
Refit the speedo cable and dust cap
Lube the cable so it passes through and sticks out past the spindle. Fit the cap and clip, and tap the cap on until it bottoms.
8
Fit the wheels, snug the lugs, and lower the Bus
9
Rough-align it
Set each tire parallel to its fender. Measure across the front of the tires and across the back at the same tread point, and adjust the tie rods until they match.
10
Grease every zerk
Pump them evenly with a fresh tube, then wipe off the excess. Give them a couple of pumps at every valve adjustment or oil change.
A digital 4-wheel alignment by an alignment specialist is required afterward for even tire wear.
06 · Watch
Bus drop spindle walkthrough
07 · FAQ
Drop spindle questions
Do I need new tie rods?
Yes. Dropped spindles need two adjustable tie rods with a Split end and a Bay end.
Why back the link pin off 1/16 turn?
The shims are thrust washers. They need clearance to spin, or they wear early and throw off camber.
Can I reuse my stock washers and seals?
No. Link pins, needle bearings and shims are all that goes in.
Raw or powder coated?
Raw spindles must be painted before installation. Powder coated are ready to bolt on.
Do I still need an alignment?
Yes. The rough alignment gets you driving; a digital 4-wheel alignment gets it right.
Ready to drop the front?
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