US Dollars
1949–1965 VW TYPE 1 · LINK PIN FRONT BEAM
Link Pin Spindle Install Guide
Stock-height or drop. ECObuilt, PRObuilt or your own rebuilt originals. One install covers all of them — same hardware, same shim chart, same steps.
Start here
Which spindle do you have?
The install is the same for every link pin spindle we sell. What changes is whether you rebuild first and whether you paint first.
Stock height or Drop
Same procedure, same hardware, same shim chart. A drop spindle only changes ride height.
ECObuilt assemblies
Same build and QC as PRObuilt. Ships raw — paint or coat it before install. Skip Phase 3.
PRObuilt assemblies
Same build and QC as ECObuilt, finished and ready to install. Skip Phase 3.
Your own originals
Rebuilding your stock or drop spindles yourself? Do Phase 3 and the rebuild workflow below.
Specs at a glance
What you're working with
Hardware
17 mm tie rod nuts
(4) 17 mm link-pin bolts
Pin ends
9/16" or 14 mm wrench — rotate to disengage bolts
Shim
Part #2442 measures offset; the shim chart sets camber
Rebuild
Optional path — or swap in ECObuilt / PRObuilt assemblies
Read this first
Top 5 install mistakes
- 01Reaching for a pickle fork. Don't. Air-hammer on the tie-rod stem from below pops the swedge in seconds with no boot or thread damage. No air hammer? Loosen the nuts and tap the SIDE of the spindle (toward strongest casting) until the swedge releases. Pickle forks tear boots and bend rod ends every time.
- 02Skipping the play test BEFORE removal. Rock the assembled spindle top-to-bottom on the car. ANY play at king-pin or link-pin joints means BOTH kits get replaced — they wear together. Reusing "looks OK" parts gives you shimmy and an alignment that won't hold.
- 03Wrong shim count for control-arm offset. When torsion-bar dimples are modified, the upper-to-lower torsion face distance changes — that's control-arm offset. Measure with Part #2442 (or mm gauge + straight edge), THEN look up inner/outer shim count on the chart. Applies to stock and drop spindles alike. Skip it and camber lands wrong; an alignment shop can't fix it via tie rods.
- 04Reaming without the proper reamer. If king pins or bushings need replacement, you need the correct king-pin reamer to size new bushings to spec. Wrong reamer = bushings too tight (binds) or too loose (knock). FEBI for replacements; reamers rent. Don't shortcut this — call the PROs if it's out of range.
- 05Skipping the post-install grease. ALL FOUR beam zerks get a full pump after install — new ECObuilt and PRObuilt assemblies included. Top up with every oil change or valve adjustment. Dry bushings squeak, then bind, and bound articulation eats new pins.
Tools
Tools required
- Jack & jack stands
- Metric sockets (8 / 14 / 17 / 19 mm)
- 9/16" or 14 mm wrench (link-pin ends)
- Air hammer (preferred — tie rod removal)
- Hammer (backup tie-rod method)
- Press · king-pin reamer (rebuild path only)
- Grease gun + new tube · WD-40
- Part #2442 offset tool · paint · anti-seize
Phase 1
Removal — driver side
- 01Loosen front lugs 1/4 turn before jacking. Raise front, place stands; wheels under chassis as failsafe. Disconnect battery.
- 02Pull speedo cable c-clip (LHD) — tape it to your beer can.
- 03Pull dust cap, spindle nut, slide drum off.
- 04Remove (3) backing-plate bolts; hang on a wire — DO NOT break any brake lines.
- 05Tie-rod ends: loosen 17 mm nuts (don't fully remove). Air hammer the stem from below — see Mistake 01 if no air hammer.
- 06PLAY TEST before removal: rock spindle top-to-bottom — any play = full king-pin + link-pin replacement, or new ECObuilt / PRObuilt assemblies.
- 07Remove (4) 17 mm link-pin bolts on back of spindle. Rotate the link pin (9/16" or 14 mm wrench at the end) to disengage bolts. Pull spindle.
PRO TIP · Play test before removal — non-negotiable. Rock the assembled spindle top-to-bottom on the car BEFORE you start unbolting. Any visible play at the king-pin or link-pin means BOTH kits go in. They wear together — once one is sloppy, the other is ahead of you on the curve. Reusing "looks OK" pins to save a few bucks gives you shimmy at speed and an alignment that won't hold. FEBI sells quality replacements at fair prices.
Phases 2 – 3
Passenger side, decision, rebuild
2Passenger side & decision
- 01Repeat the driver-side removal procedure on the passenger side.
- 02DECISION POINT — pick your path. Stock or drop, the path is the same:
- 03(A) Bought ECObuilt or PRObuilt assemblies? Skip Phase 3. ECObuilt ships raw — paint or coat it first. Then go straight to Phase 4.
- 04(B) Rebuilding your own stock or drop spindles? Continue with Phase 3.
- 05(C) Rebuild out of skill range? Call 1-623-518-3537 — we'll rebuild your assemblies or upgrade you to ECObuilt or PRObuilt.
3Rebuild (optional)
- 01WD-40 soak the spindle assembly liberally before pressing.
- 02Press out grease zerks (correct tool — don't crush them). Press out link-pin bushings.
- 03Press out king pin. KEEP the thrust washer + bake-o-lite (BOL) washer with their respective sides.
- 04Inspect king pins, link-pin bushings, washers — replace worn parts (FEBI premium).
- 05Pre-assemble dry: spindle into carrier with thrust + BOL washers. Verify snug-but-fluid rotation.
- 06Adjust by removing thousandths from washers / carrier as needed. New bushings → REAM with the correct king-pin reamer to spec.
- 07Paint spindle + carrier. Lube every part. Press king pins in, link-pin bushings, reinstall grease zerks.
PRO TIP · Rebuild vs. ECObuilt / PRObuilt — when to call. The rebuild path needs a press, the correct king-pin reamer, and the patience to dial thrust-washer thicknesses to thousandths until rotation is snug-but-fluid. If any of those are out of skill or tool range, the PROs can rebuild your assemblies for you — OR you swap in ECObuilt (raw) or PRObuilt (finished) assemblies, stock or drop, ready to install. No judgment. We'd rather you call than fight a fight you can't win and end up with a spindle that knocks at speed.
Phases 4 – 5
Offset, shims, mount
4Control-arm offset & shims
- 01Measure control-arm offset: Part #2442 OR mm gauge + straight edge.
- 02Modified torsion-bar dimples change upper-to-lower torsion face distance — offset compensates.
- 03Look up your offset on the SHIM CHART → inner + outer shim count for camber. Same chart for stock and drop.
- 04Lube link pins BEFORE shims, AND the arm interconnect surfaces.
- 05Stack shims per chart; install link pins through the arms.
5Mount & tighten
- 01Slide factory hardware through the arm holes.
- 02Rotate the link pins (9/16"/14 mm at the end) until they tighten up.
- 03Adjust by feel — NO slop in the joint, but it must move freely.
- 04Tighten bolts to spec when feel is correct.
- 05Reinstall tie-rod ends with anti-seize on the swedge tapers (Pro Tip below).
PRO TIP · Anti-seize every swedge-fit on assembly. Tapered shafts where the tie rod and link pin seat — anti-seize on every one. First install always fights you because parts are fresh; lubed-on-assembly means the NEXT removal goes in 30 seconds with an air hammer instead of an hour-long battle. Future you will thank present you.
Phase 6
Brakes · align · grease
- 01Brakes: backing plate (3 bolts), drum, dust cap. Spindle nut tightened until drum stops, then back off 1/4 turn. Cotter / e-clip.
- 02Speedo cable: lube, push through spindle until it protrudes; dust cap + e-clip; tap cap home.
- 03Wheels on, lower vehicle, torque lugs.
- 04Rough alignment: tie rods until tires LOOK parallel to fenders. Measure front-tread vs. rear-tread (same point each side); adjust until equal both sides.
- 05Then book a DIGITAL 4-wheel alignment — the shim count is set, so this is just toe.
- 06Pump ALL FOUR beam zerks full. Wipe excess. Top up with every oil change or valve adjustment.
Rebuild workflow
Tear-down · fit · reassemble
For rebuilding your own stock or drop spindles. ECObuilt and PRObuilt assemblies arrive already fitted — skip this section.
Tear-down
- WD-40 soak — let it sit before pressing.
- Press grease zerks out with the correct tool (don't crush).
- Press link-pin bushings out of the spindle carriers.
- Press king pin out — KEEP thrust washer + bake-o-lite washer with each side's carrier.
- Inspect: pins, bushings, washers, carrier surfaces. Replace anything worn with FEBI.
Fit · ream · paint
- Pre-assemble DRY: spindle in carrier with thrust + BOL washers.
- Target: snug rotation, fluid not loose, no detectable axial play.
- Too tight? Sand thousandths off the BOL washer or thrust washer.
- Too loose? Add a thinner shim, or replace washer with thicker stock.
- New bushings? REAM to spec with the correct king-pin reamer. Re-check fit.
- Once feel is right, paint spindle + carrier (corrosion protection).
- Lube every part. Press king pins in → link-pin bushings → grease zerks.
Shim chart notes
Control-arm offset & shim chart
- Control-arm offset = distance from upper torsion-bar face to lower torsion-bar face after dimple modification.
- Measure with Part #2442 OR mm gauge + straight edge across both faces.
- Look up your offset value on the Airkewld SHIM CHART — one chart for stock and drop spindles.
- Chart returns: inner shim count + outer shim count for correct camber.
- Lube link pin BEFORE installing shims, and AFTER installing shims through the arm.
- Wrong count = wrong camber = alignment rack can't recover via tie rods.
Cores
Sell your old spindles on the Core Collective
Swapped in ECObuilt or PRObuilt assemblies? Your old stock or drop spindle assemblies still have value. Core pricing moves with the volume we receive, so there's no fixed buyback — cores go through the Core Collective, where you'll see current values and how to send yours. Old assemblies don't sit in the garage; they go back into the system for someone else's rebuild.
Go to the Core CollectiveStuck?
Talk to the PROs
Email help@airkewld.com with photos of your setup — we answer, and your build stays on record. Rather talk it through? Call 1-623-518-3537.